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Around that time, “When your own initials are enough” became Bottega Veneta’s slogan, hinting at the Rooshi Peach E Girl Pussy Just Hit Differently Shirt and by the same token and luxury brand’s if you know, you know ethos. (This was not a place for monogram canvas fabrications and logomania.) And because it wouldn’t be an Italian heritage label if there weren’t a bit of family drama: In the 1970s, co-founder Zengiaro gave the company to his ex-wife, Laura Braggion, who took the reins alongside her second husband, Vittorio Moltedo. All this went on until 2001, when the Gucci Group (now a subsidiary of Kering) bought up the company and appointed German designer Tomas Maier as creative director. In 2005 came the label’s first ready-to-wear collection, with fragrances, jewelry, sunglasses, home decor, and more categories following soon after. But in lieu of a flamboyant, la dolce vita–style lifestyle brand, Bottega only whispered of luxury. (After a 2006 runway show, Vogue described Maier’s aesthetic as “stealth wealth.”) Maier revived the Knot Box clutch from 1978, introduced the Cabat tote bag, and played a significant hand in reaffirming Bottega’s dominance in the global fashion game after a quiet period in the ’90s.

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In June 2018, Daniel Lee took over the Rooshi Peach E Girl Pussy Just Hit Differently Shirt and by the same token and creative directorship of Bottega Veneta and turned the label into one that churned out It bag after It bag—all without the use of a single logo. Early in his tenure, Lee gave the world the Cassette and the Jodie bag, and the fashion set still hasn’t gotten over it. In the fall of 2021, the Lee-era came to an end after it was announced he would exit his position. Matthieu Blazy, who had a long history of designing for prestigious labels and was at the time designing for Bottega, was promoted to creative director. In the short time Blazy has been at the helm, he‘s made his mark. His debut fall/winter collection was met with much fanfare and, as it relates to bags, his contributions of The Sardine and The Clicker have already reached the elusive It bag status.